Fundamental textile testing: Health and safety testing

First Published: November 2021

Consumers are in constant close contact with textiles and clothing and this makes ensuring product safety and quality critical. Unsafe clothing or textiles can have a long-term detrimental impact on consumer loyalty and brand trust. 

In the second of a three-part textile testing series (read article 1 here), we take a look at textile testing in terms of health and safety testing, covering: 

• Chemical testing  
• Flammability testing 
• Small parts & choking hazards  

Health and safety testing for textiles can provide an idea of the eco-toxicological & safety footprint of materials, the risk to final users and/or the risk of product recalls.  Let’s take a look at each type of testing. 

Chemical testing  

Chemical regulations which restrict the use of hazardous chemical substances in textiles and garments globally are generally aimed at protecting users’ health and the environment.  

It is crucial for any buyer or supplier to ensure that their products are chemically compliant and fulfil the necessary regulatory requirements, with textile chemical testing normally being a quantitative, analytical process.   

• Main causes of non-compliant results   
  • Use of restricted chemicals  
  • Wrong application of recipes  
  • Contamination   
• Recommendation for improvement  
  • Mainly, change the chemicals used  
  • Review the process
  • In very few cases some treatments may reduce the content of some of the chemicals  
• Results interpretation  
  • PASS/FAIL at a given requirement  
  • Presence/Absence of a specific substance or compound  

Where do hazardous substances in fabrics come from?  

It’s important to know where hazardous substances in fabrics come from and this is where textile chemical testing can prove invaluable. Generally, they can originate from: 

• Production of the material 
• Dyes/prints & related agents
• Finishing  
• By-products  

There are numerous chemicals that can crop up in textiles but let’s take a look at a few of the main ones.  

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)  

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) are a group of chemicals that are found in every industry but especially in the textile industry. 

• Applicable standards
  • AfPS GS 2014  
• Uses and where they may be found
  • Carbon black pigments/dyes  
  • Printing pastes  
  • Lubricants
  • Dye dispersing agents 
  • Rubber & plastic components  
  • Lacquers & coatings  

Chlororganic Carriers (COCs) 

Chlororganic Carriers (COCs) are a group of chemicals consisting of various Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes, which are typically used as intermediates in the synthesis of other chemicals. In the textile industry, these can be used as a dye carrier for some specific dyes and compositions in order to improve the performance of the dyeing process.  

• Applicable standards
  • DIN 54232  
• Uses and where they may be found  
  • Dye carriers, especially in dying polyester  
  • Textile (PES and blends)   
  • Optical brighteners   
  • Biocides  

Formaldehyde  

Perhaps one of the most famous chemicals, formaldehyde can be widely-found in textiles and clothing.   

• Applicable standards 
  • ISO 14184-1  
• Uses and where they may be found   
  • Resins  
  • Finishing (i.e., wrinkle-free)  
  • Prints  
  • Adhesives and glue  

Azo dyes & salts  

Azo dyes are types of synthetic dyes and pigments that contain azo structures. These azo structures can break down by a reductive process, resulting in azo compounds that are known to be hazardous to human health. Azo dyes are widely used in the textile and leather industry.  

• Applicable standards  
  • ISO 14362-1  
• Uses and where they may be found
  • Dyes & Prints  
  • Textiles  
  • Leather  
  • Synthetic leather  

Carcinogenic dyes 

Carcinogenic dyes are a group of dyes that may represent different toxicity concerns, such as potentially being CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Toxic for Reproduction) or hazardous to the environment or aquatic life. Restrictions in several countries include a wide range of types of dyes including some acid, basic, direct or solvent dyes. 

• Applicable standards 
  • DIN 54231   
• Uses and where they may be found 
  • Dyes & Prints  
  • Textiles  
  • Polymer solvent dyes  
     

Flammability testing

Mandatory flammability requirements are in place in the majority of key markets to protect the end-user. These are applicable to both domestic textiles and commercial textiles as they can be exposed to different flame and heat sources and must be properly evaluated. 

There are many different tests for textile flammability based on the final product. The standards displayed below are those used in the  EU to assess the flammability of fabrics in general and the flammability behaviour of nightwear. 

• Applicable standards  
  • EN 1101   
  • EN 14878  
• Aim
  • To evaluate the burn potential and flame spread time  
• Main causes of non-compliant results
  • Chemical nature 
  • Fabric construction (weight, thickness, etc.)
  • Finishing treatment 
  • Design  
• Recommendation for improvement 
  • Finishing 
  • Increase weight or thickness 
  • Change composition 
  • Change fabric construction   
• Results interpretation 
  • Fire behaviour, ignition time or flame spread time

Small parts & choking hazards

Choking on small parts remains one of the leading causes of injury and injury in infants and young children and this also applies to textiles. Choking is also a source of recalls by several authorities. Compliance begins with the product design, where it is necessary to take into consideration the potential generation of these small parts. 

• Applicable standards 
  • CEN/TS 17394-1 / 3 / 4  
  • EN 17394-2  
  • UNE 40902  
  • EN 71-1  
• Aim
  • To evaluate the hazard potential of attached components on infant clothing  
  • Main causes of non-compliant results
  • Loose attachment of components 
  • Weak materials 
  • Design  
• Recommendation for improvement 
  • Securely attach the components 
  • Reinforce attachment materials 
  • Use stronger stitching yarns 
  • If necessary, review the design  
• Results interpretation
  • Results are provided by the maximum strength needed to remove the component
  • Or observations after treatment 
  • Important to observe the failure point  
     

How can Eurofins Softlines & Hardlines help?

By conducting the textile tests above, you can gain a clear view of the safety and quality of your garments and apparel.

If you would like to know more about how our experts can help with this, get in touch today.