Collagen

Early stage evaluations often begin with 3D skin models and human skin explants, where dedicated staining techniques help visualise dermal thickness, collagen density, fibre organisation, and collagen subtypes. These platforms offer rapid, mechanism-oriented insights and support the biological relevance of active ingredients.

In vivo, non-invasive imaging technologies provide direct access to dermal collagen in real time.

• Spectrophotometry (with SIAscopy) maps collagen distribution beneath the skin surface.
• High-frequency ultrasound (20 MHz) quantifies dermal thickness, echogenicity, and the subepidermal low echogenic band (SENEB), closely linked to collagen density and photoaging.
• OCT offers cross-sectional visualisation of dermal structure.
• LC-OCT delivers high-resolution images of the dermal microarchitecture and collagen organisation.
• Confocal laser scanning microscopy reveals fine collagen bundles in the superficial dermis.
• Multiphoton tomography provides unique, label-free imaging of collagen fibres using SHG, enabling precise assessment of fibre density and orientation.

In vivo, non-invasive Raman spectroscopy can also be used to study the helical conformation of collagen in the dermis. In normal skin, most Raman scatters, especially in protein-specific regions, is gathered from the dermis. The protein that contributes most significantly to the spectra is collagen, since it accounts for >80% of the dermal fibres.

Skin firmness and elasticity are heavily influenced by dermal collagen. Measuring biomechanical properties – via suction, torsion, indentation, or pressure-based technologies – offers an indirect but highly relevant way to assess collagen-related improvements and support product performance claims.

Our CRO network provides a full suite of direct and indirect collagen assessment methods, enabling robust, customised clinical strategies to substantiate collagen related efficacy claims – from mechanisms of action to in vivo demonstration.